The Margherita Hut is located at 14,940 feet (4,554 meters) above sea level on Punta Gnifetti, one of the steepest peaks in the Monte Rosa range and serves as a natural border between Italy and Switzerland. As previously said, this wooden hut is a bit of an oddity in that it is Europe’s tallest building while also serving as a simple refuge for climbers who can earn their stay by merely climbing the mountain. However, ‘earn’ means climbing up to it, which is not an easy feat.
The hut was named after Queen Margherita of Savoy, who opened the original on August 18, 1893. To give you an idea of how brave the queen must have been, she stayed overnight in the refuge hut, becoming one of the first illustrious visitors to these heights. The Italian Alpine Club established the original Margherita refuge cabin. They prepared the refuge hut and dragged it all the way to the peak on the back of a mule, or nearly all the way, with the final sections transported on foot.
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It was originally intended to be a place for scientists conducting high-altitude medical research, such as physiologist Angelo Mosso. However, it quickly evolved its own purpose and became a popular destination for people curious about the effects of being at such a high altitude on people. A meteorological station was established in 1899, and the Margherita hut has remained in service ever since. During the winter of 1928-29, the temperature plummeted to -41°C.
By the late 1970s, the original hut was showing signs of wear and tear, so it was disassembled and a fresh new version was built between 1979 and 1980. Like the first, this new Margherita Hut was built in the valley below, this time in the town of Failungo Superiore, before being transported up the summit. This time, however, it’s a more modern affair, with double-walled lumber for insulation against howling winds and freezing temperatures, copper cladding that also acts as lightning protection, and steel wires to keep everything safe on the rocky side.
To reach to the hut, climbers must first leave the Italian valleys below, such as Alagna Valsesia, where cable cars convey them to Punta Indren, an elevation of 3,275 meters. Then there’s a short climb to a first-night shelter at a little lower elevation, perhaps Gnifetti or Mantova. The issue arises the following day, when the climb is a five-hour haul across the Lys glacier while roped up, avoiding hidden crevasses and hauling a bag up 900 meters of elevation. Crampons and ice equipment are almost essential, and most tourists travel with guides to make the journey easier and safer. Furthermore, altitude sickness is always a problem at this high altitude, where there is 40% less oxygen in the air than at sea level, so it is not just a matter of fitness levels to consider.
As soon as you enter inside the hut, you’ll notice that it can accommodate up to 70 people, all of whom can spread out in bunk rooms and share the few restrooms available. A pub and restaurant provide wonderful food, with the margherita pizza being a personal favorite (unsurprising given that it is named after the queen). Of course, there’s an espresso machine, a little library in the corner where you can read books stacked all the way to the ceiling, and WiFi to keep you connected down on the ground. On clear days, the sun terrace provides a spectacular view of glaciers, peaks, and valleys in the distance, but let’s be honest: keeping everything running smoothly here is a tiny team that rotates every couple of weeks.
Come winter, access is limited to a tiny room that can only fit about 10 or 12 beds; sorry, no frills, just a few blankets and a gas heater to keep warm if you do end up having to stay there, and it is only open to people in an absolute emergency or the most experienced visitors. Summer, on the other hand, brings the full season from the beginning of June to the end of September, when the hut is buzzing with climbers heading up to places like Dufourspitze, Switzerland’s highest point. Since 2017, it has even been allowed to hold a civil wedding here, thanks to the mayor of Alagna Valsesia, which is a charming little touch in what may be a severe setting.
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